The first post-covid Spring-Summer 2023 men’s shows, held in New York, London, Milan and Paris, set the tone for future men’s trends. The suit – once thought dead and buried – has resurfaced on the catwalks, albeit in a laid-back style, while bright colors and wacky patterns have brought a welcome burst of energy, noticeably absent in recent months.
How will men dress in the coming months? This is the question that the major global fashion houses set out to answer during their spring-summer 2023 men’s shows, which featured various patterns that are shaping up to be trends. After two years marked by a quest for sober, almost aseptic comfort, the men’s wardrobe is rediscovering its colours, carried by a certain nonchalant elegance, coupled with a good dose of fun, without forgetting pieces directly inspired by the women’s wardrobe.
The key men’s trends for spring/summer 2023
The costume refreshes
No, the costume is not dead. While men have momentarily swapped their two-pieces — or three-pieces — for jeans, cargo pants, joggers and the like, this menswear essential is on its way back. But this time, the suit will be more casual than ever, even unstructured, with loose cuts that are sometimes oversized, light materials and sometimes cuts that are deliberately torn or adorned with various embellishments.
Officine Générale, Louis Vuitton, Y/Project, Dries van Noten, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior Homme and Ermenegildo Zelda are just some of the luxury brands that have unveiled this type of costume. However, others have stuck with more structured and tailored silhouettes. This is the case with Céline, Prada and Mowalola, for example, whose suit styles are much more similar to those worn before the pandemic.
Bare breasts and crop tops
But while men are returning to suits – albeit in less traditional cuts – they’re ditching shirts, T-shirts and tank tops. Torsos are bare as never before, muscles bulging and flesh flashed with open shirts – but no shiny gold chains – as well as see-through effects, partially closed suits and bathrobes, or even…nothing at all. ALYX, Dsquared2, Emporio Armani, Céline, Marine Serre, Givenchy and Moschino are some of the fashion houses that have turned up the heat on the catwalks, clearly setting the tone for the months to come.
But the great novelty of the men’s locker room comes straight from the women’s locker room. A relic of the 2000s, the crop top, which has become essential again in recent years, is now making its way into men’s looks, with variations that are often much wackier than their feminine counterparts.
Rick Owens, for example, unveiled probably the most skimpy model in crop top history, looking more like a fabric collar than an actual top. But the trend is vast, ranging from Moschino to Thom Browne to MSGM. Note that Thom Browne — one of the most avant-garde labels of this fashion month — also presented skirts, including pleated mini-skirts, as well as a bikini top, all on the men’s runways .
Bright colors and a return to childhood
A riot of colors, surreal works, patterns inspired by childhood, totally extravagant shapes and cuts… Today’s fashion doesn’t take itself – or no longer – seriously. After two years of the pandemic, with its lockdowns and restrictions, it’s clearly time to relax and have fun, rocking bold, retro designs.
Almost all designers have shown looks in this vein, with a notable return to flashy or neon colors (Versace, MSGM, Rick Owens), tie-dye patterns (Louis Vuitton, Dsquared2), and prints straight out of drawings cartoons or children’s books (Egonlab) .
This return to childhood was particularly striking at Louis Vuitton, with a spectacular suit entirely covered in paper airplanes. This should help you pass the time when you are bored at the office… Bosses be warned!
This story was published via AFP Relaxnews
(Main and featured image: Julien de Rosa/ Miguel Medina/ Geoffroy Van Der Hasselt/ AFP)